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Panthere de Cartier

Panthere de Cartier

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Click here to watch a video about the history and appeal of the Cartier watch "Panther" ↓

Everyone agrees that the Tank is Cartier's signature model, but they also have many other wonderful models.

One of them is the "Panther" that we will introduce to you today.

If you are a woman, I'm sure most of you know this.

Today, we will explain in detail about the Panther: how it was born, what is its appeal, what are its shape characteristics, etc., so if you have been interested in Panther watches, please read to the end.


What is the Cartier Panthere?

What kind of watch is the Cartier Panthere?

The name "Panther" actually means "leopard" in French.

Therefore, the design of the Panther from Cartier's jewelry line directly depicts a leopard, or some element reminiscent of a leopard is incorporated into the piece.

Cartier Jewelry Line Panthere Collection

Cartier was originally a jewelry brand and design was of paramount importance.

For those of us who are not familiar with design, it may be a little difficult to understand, but the leopard has long been valued as Cartier's family emblem due to its ferocity, elegance, mystery and beauty.

In 1914, Louis Cartier commissioned a painting of a "Panther Woman" from noted French illustrator Georges Barbier for use on invitations for a Cartier jewelry exhibition.

The Panther Woman by George Barbier and the first Panther watch made of diamonds and onyx

In the same year, Cartier We've created a stunning ladies watch with a leopard print design made from diamonds and onyx that is more like a bracelet than a watch.

This is the first Panther.

The Panther today is square in shape, but the Panther at this time was made in a round shape.

There is no record of whether this was exhibited at a jewelry exhibition, but this is how Cartier used leopard to create deep sculptures.

Although the Panther at this time was called the "Panther," the Panther line had not yet been firmly established.

The Panther style that we imagine is a line that was fully established in 1983, and it has been quite a while since the first model was revived.

Now, let's focus on the woman who created the image of the "leopard" that is associated with Cartier.


Jeanne Toussaint, creator of the Panther Cartier Jeanne Toussaint

Jeanne Toussaint was Cartier's creative director from the mid-1900s to the 1960s.

She was born in Belgium in 1887 and died in 1976.

As a designer, he became acquainted with jeweler Louis Cartier (the third generation president of Cartier) and began advising Cartier on its jewelry line.

Toussaint's artistry, talent, and leopard print fashion captivated Louis Cartier, leading to a relationship between the two.

Her love of leopard print earned her the nickname "La Panthère" from her lover Louis Cartier.

In short, Toussaint was Louis Cartier's business partner and lover.

This nickname became the basis for Cartier's most exquisite jewelry and watches: the Cartier Panthère.

Toussaint eventually rose to become Cartier's head of creative direction, a coveted position usually reserved for women, and led the house to further success throughout the 1900s.

Toussaint's Panthère is known for its stunning carving in yellow gold and black enamel, a color combination that gives the animal a more three-dimensional appearance.

Jeanne Toussaint is an icon of Cartier, and her innovative designs and original ideas remain part of the house's identity today and are loved by people all over the world.


Panther design features

Cartier offers a range of shapes, including the rectangular Tank, square Santos, rounded Ballon Bleu, asymmetrical Crush, turtle-inspired Tortue, and bathtub-like Baignoire.

For more information on Santos and Baignoire, please see this video.

So, what are the design features of the Panthère de Cartier watch?

Typically (though not in all cases), distinctive details of a Cartier Panthere watch include:

• Square case

• Square bezel with eight rivets

• Square dial

• Ultra-flexible link bracelet

• Quartz movement

Now, let's take a look at the design together, quoting examples from Cartier's official website.

Cartier Watch Panthere Design Explanation

I think it's a little hard to understand from the sketch, so I'll just explain the important parts.

Please see the image below.

The design of the Panther was inspired by the image of a leopard stretching its legs and arms when viewed from the side.

When viewed from the side, the Panther model case resembles a leopard with its arms and legs stretched out straight.

In fact, the design of the Panther was inspired by this scene.

The design of the watch captures the leopard's flexible, powerful muscles and the contrasting softness and curves of its body.

This is also reflected in the links of the bracelet, which feature soft curves and suppleness reminiscent of a leopard.

Another major feature of the Panthere is that it only uses quartz movements.

Cartier watches generally start to be equipped with hand-wound or automatic movements from the LM size onwards, but the Panthere only goes up to MM, giving it the feel of a model exclusively for women.

I think that the reason why only quartz movements are used is because women who enjoy things like getting their nails done find the task of winding a watch by hand a bit of a burden.

It looks similar to Santos, but what's different?

Cartier has a similar model called the Santos.

If you've recently become interested in buying a Cartier, it's probably difficult to tell the difference at a glance, so from here on I'll explain the differences.

Please see the image below↓

The difference between Cartier watches "Santos" and "Panthere" The one on the left is the Santos and the one on the right is the Panther.

First, let's take a look at the major differences between these two watches and their respective parts.

As for the Santos, each part has a clearly defined edge, making it very angular.

This is why the Santos gives off a masculine vibe.

On the other hand, with the Panther, each part is chamfered and rounded.

This is why the panther gives off a feminine vibe.

Also, take a look at the links of the bracelet.

The Santos is connected horizontally, while the Panthere is connected vertically.

As I explained earlier, you can see that the links of the Santos are angular, while the Panthere are chamfered and rounded.

When you put them side by side like this, you get the impression that they are quite different.

Now let's look at Santos-Dumont and Panther, two watches whose differences are a little harder to see.

Cartier Watches: Differences between Santos-Dumont and Panthere

Santos-Dumont is also available in a ladies' size, SM, which is quite similar to the Panthere.

An easy way to tell the difference between these two models is by the crown (where you set the time).

Here, the Dumont does not have a crown guard, but the Panthere does.

Additionally, the default strap for the Dumont is an alligator strap, while the Panthere is a metal bracelet.

Both are great watches, but I think women tend to prefer the Panthere.

Reasons for the end of production of the Panther

As mentioned at the beginning, the Panther line was officially established in 1983, but in fact production of the Panther was discontinued in 2008.

It would be understandable if production had been discontinued due to lack of popularity, but the fact is that the Panther line was quite popular, so what changes have been made to the line that has been around for 25 years?

Let's take a look at the historical background together.

This is a Panther from the 80s to 90s, but it was actually also available in small/medium sizes.

It's LM, so it's a men's size.

Therefore, at that time, the Panthere was a unisex model that could be worn by either gender, rather than being exclusively a ladies' watch.

Then, four years before the Panthere was discontinued, the Santos de Moiselle, a version of the Santos designed exclusively for women, was released in 2004.

In that case, even though the watches are almost the same style, they will overlap as they are both unisex models.

I think the strategy was probably to target the regular Santos at men's markets and the Demoiselle at women's.

Cartier's Santos de Cartier watch models

As a result, it appears that the strategy they adopted was to keep the Santos, supplement the ladies' range with the Santos, and discontinue the Panthere.

How does the 1983 model differ from the 2017 model?

As mentioned above, the Panther was originally a popular model, so in response to strong demand it was brought back in 2017.

By this time, the Santos de Cartier had also been discontinued and the Santos was transformed into a men's line.

Therefore, it was successfully revived as a ladies' item.

So let's take a look at how the revived Panther differs from the 1983 model.

First of all, the general design, the eight characteristic screws on the bezel remain, and no changes can be seen.

However, that doesn't mean it will be a complete recovery.

Then please see the image below↓

Comparison of the old and new Cartier Panthere watches

The one on the left is the older model, and the one on the right is the 2017 model.

It may be a little difficult to tell from the image, but the case of the older model has a hairline finish with linear lines.

On the other hand, models from 2017 onwards have a polished finish, which gives them a reflective shine like a mirror.

Comparison of watch case finishing methods: hairline finish and polished finish

Let's look at some more details.

If you look at the details of the finish, it looks like this, and the hairline finish has no shine.

The polished one is shiny and reflective.

I think this is because the previous model also had a men's line, and they wanted to make sure the lens wasn't too reflective when worn by men.

Men don't look for sparkle in their watches, but rather for something chic and sophisticated.

I think the models from 2017 onwards have a polished finish that gives them a lustrous look because they are made specifically for ladies.

The Mini Panther has also changed its style.

The previous model was also available in the Mini Panther size, but the style of the new model has changed significantly.

Then please see the image below↓

Comparison of the old and new Cartier Mini Panthere watches

The one on the left is the older model, and the one on the right is the 2017 model.

The old model does not have a crown, the new model does.

Since a similar design was adopted for the Baignoire model, it seems likely that Cartier's thinking at this time was to make watches an extension of jewelry.

By the way, you can also adjust the time on this Mini Panther by pressing the button on the back of the case.

Which one is better is up to each individual, but since they are both designed by Cartier, they are both beautiful watches.

Let's take a look at the current model

As I mentioned earlier, the Panther line comes in three sizes: Mini, SM, and MM.

Please see the image below↓

Cartier watch Panthere size comparison

The Mini Panther case is 21mm x 25mm.

The mini watch is popular among Japanese women, and it fits perfectly on their wrists. It's also nice that you can wear it casually like an accessory.

In the high-end lines, there are models that are lavishly studded with diamonds, but for formal occasions, wearing a small but elegant watch like this will make you look like an elegant woman.

Cartier Watches Mini Panthere Diamond Model List

Also, since the watch is not large, you can enjoy wearing it with other jewelry such as a love bracelet.

The Panthere SM case is 22mm x 30mm.

The case size is only 1mm different than the Mini, but that 1mm difference makes a big difference in the impression of the watch.

The SM size is also made for women, so although it is small, it has a strong presence and makes an exquisite accent.

The design is almost the same as the Mini, but the SM adds a minute rail to the dial.


The Panthere MM case measures 27mm x 37mm.

The MM size is 5mm larger than the SM size, so the impression is quite different.

That being said, the case remains thin at 6mm, so it is still a dressy watch.

If you look at it alone inside the Panther, it looks big, but since the current standard size for ladies' watches is 26 to 35 mm, this is finally about the normal size.

Cartier Panthere SM & MM size diamond models list

When it comes to diamond models, the diamonds have a greater presence, making them a wonderful item that will brighten up your wrist.

If the material is 18K gold, the price of the watch itself will be extremely high, but if it is stainless steel, even if it is a diamond model, you can purchase it at a relatively reasonable price, so a stainless steel diamond model is recommended.

I think people choose a watch based on their own preferences and the type of occasion they will be wearing it in, so it's nice to know that a range of sizes are available to suit you.

Let's take a look at the material lineup

Panthère de Cartier material lineup 1
Panthère de Cartier material lineup 2

Since these are watches made specifically for ladies, the lineup is made with materials that are popular with women.

The standard stainless steel model is simple yet elegant, and is the cheapest, so it is recommended for those who want to try out what a Cartier watch is like.

Next comes yellow and pink gold.

There is a stainless steel combination as well as an all yellow or pink gold version, and both have a touch of gold that gives them a sense of elegance that is different to stainless steel.

If you prefer a cuter, more feminine, sweeter style, we recommend choosing a colorful watch like this one.

Diamond models are significantly more expensive, but when a Cartier watch is adorned with diamonds, it has a beauty that sets it apart from other watches.

And there is a white gold version, but it is only available in mini form and is made more as a bracelet than a watch.

Unlike stainless steel, white gold is soft.

The material itself is soft, which gives it a mellow feel, and the diamonds are set on top of it, making them shine even more.

This is possible because of the small size of the Mini; if the size were larger, it would be too bold and would end up looking too flashy.

I feel that this is similar to our Japanese values, where we see virtue in modesty.

Let's take a look at the dial lineup

List of Cartier's Panthere watch dials

Looking at the dials, in addition to the standard model, there are also stylish and cute dials available.


summary

Cartier is a world-renowned luxury jewelry brand.

Therefore, Cartier watches generally fetch high prices.

However, a standard stainless steel model of the Panthere can be purchased new for around 500,000 yen, and second-hand for around 300,000 to 400,000 yen, so compared to the beauty of the watch, it doesn't seem that expensive.

This is an attractive watch that combines beautiful design, advanced technology, and the brand image.

You can enjoy choosing the one that suits you best from a wide variety of unique designs and options.

No matter which Panther you choose, it will fit comfortably and smoothly on your wrist, which is perhaps the greatest appeal of the Panther model.